Final Post: Homecoming

I'm writing this post exactly one year after I left for Spain: August 24th. I’ve been back in the U.S. for almost three weeks now. Door-to-door travel from Granada to San Anselmo took 30 hours, but everything went perfectly smoothly and I was rewarded at the end by a burrito with all the fixings that my very wise parents brought to the airport.

My feelings were mixed as I left Granada. I was itching to get out of there by the end, since only one friend was left in the city and temperatures surpassed 100 every day. But I didn’t know if I was ready to come back home, after having just completed the most amazing month traveling through Europe. I almost envisioned myself purposefully missing my flight and setting up camp in an entirely new country next year—Study Abroad Round 2—but I dutifully boarded (and was grateful for doing so when I saw the list of amazing comedies to choose from on the plane).

Day after day I kept waiting for the reverse culture shock to set in. Sure, I didn’t study in a remote village without electricity or even a third world country, but surely I would feel some difference being back! Not the case. Upon arriving home I felt that I had been gone a solid three days. 72 hours. And I still feel that way, three weeks later. Nothing feels altered, nothing feels foreign. Granada seems like a distant memory. Looking back, though, I felt hardly any culture shock when I first moved to Spain either, even while others were struggling with homesickness or changed schedules or language barriers. Which either means I’m an insensitive freak or adaptable. I’ll go with the second.

I don’t talk about my experience very much, as people usually skim the surface with general questions like “how was it?” and then change the topic. I don’t mind, though. I know what Spain did for me and I don’t really find the need or desire to express it to everyone—anyway, they can just read my blog! I have been trying to speak Spanish a lot with bilingual friends or people I meet around here, although 100% of encounters have started with the other party commenting on my thick southern Spanish accent. Little by little I might have to lose the lisp, the ‘vosotros,’ and maybe add some of those dropped –s’s back in so people don’t ask me to clarify. But I’ll always speak grana’ino at heart.

I haven’t spent a summer at home since I started college, and although I had strong reservations about staying five weeks here after Spain, I have to say I’m loving it. Catching up with old friends, running or hiking every day, enjoying 75° weather in SUMMER. . . . why did I ever leave Marin in the first place? And great news, I just went to the dentist and I still don’t have any cavities, even after a year of chino candy, gelato, sweet sangria and a manual toothbrush. Here’s to good genes.

In a job application I recently filled out, I was asked to explain how EAP changed me. Here’s my answer, and hopefully it sums up my experience well. Thanks for following the blog; it’s been so much fun updating it, even though I’ll probably read it years from now and think what an idiot I sounded like in so many posts: “Today we went to 6,123 rounds of tapas and beer. Spain is just sooooo great!!”

How did your experience abroad change you?

After being back in the U.S. for only two weeks, I notice that I got a little tanner from that strong Spanish sun, a little wider from a year’s worth of tapas, a little more stylish after being stared down at one too many times while wearing yoga pants to class. But luckily the changes go far deeper. Studying abroad gave me a new perspective on being the underdog academically, struggling to write college-level papers during the first semester when my vocabulary was perhaps that of a grade-schooler. My time spent there changed me linguistically, as I can now add Spanish to my repertoire of fluent languages. It strengthened me emotionally, as I’ve never been on my own in a foreign country for such an extended period of time.

But what I’m most excited to explore are my changed ways of thinking and behaving after spending the best year of my life in a southern Spanish city. My will to become fluent made me more outgoing, as I would start conversations with anyone I could, simply to practice: a new father holding his baby girl in Plaza Bib-Rambla; taxi drivers with such strong Southern accents that even my best Spanish friends had trouble understanding; my history professor during office hours, who seemed more inclined to discuss the best tapas bars rather than exam papers. I made such good friends with a pair of elderly women while listening to street music in Barcelona that they insisted on getting my U.S. telephone number so they could call me at Christmas. I lowered my guard and let a swarm of strangers into my life, and in return I improved my language skills, my appreciation for Spanish culture, and my sociability, What once would seem like impossible risks, like couchsurfing or hiking 70 miles through Northern Spain alone, turned into incredible possibilities to converse and make new connections with people from all over.

I learned what it is to be a part of two cultures, and to let myself blend into the new one while maintaining much of the original. After the initial shock of entering such a laid-back lifestyle—no more student clubs, no part-time job, even the classes were much less demanding—I found new ways to become involved, like tutoring two little boys in English twice a week, and helping a policeman pass his English oral exam. But after a few months in Spain, it became clear that the typical American way of thinking—that if you’re not moving, then you’re a waste of space—simply doesn’t apply. I came to appreciate the beauty in slowing down and spending 3 hours drinking a coffee with friends, or taking a siesta during the middle of the day if I felt so inclined. The culture is brimming with this rich social tradition, one that places such importance on family that stores close for a three-hour lunch break. I will be forever grateful for my time in Granada for infusing me with some of these same values.

But perhaps more than anything, studying abroad made me more self-assured. More assured that I can in fact successfully negotiate electric bills, final exam topics, and missed trains in a foreign language. More assured that leaving one home always means I’ll find another. And now back at home, more confident than ever that I am finally studying the right major at UCSB, after trying out several subjects and interests over the past two years. Every day in Granada I was challenged and inspired to improve my language skills and put them to good use. The linguistics nerd inside of me enjoyed even a professor’s droning monologue because it meant that I could fixate on how and why and when he paired certain words together. Each time I would successfully employ a new idiom or the subjunctive tense I would internally celebrate, as though I had just done something much more significant than produce a phrase that actually made sense. 

I know now that the relationship between language and culture truly inspires me. My time in Spain steered me toward my true academic passion after spending the better part of my education succeeding academically but without any direction. As I enter my senior year and think about what comes next, this new direction couldn’t come at a more opportune time. 

Buen Camino

      I first heard about El Camino de Santiago from one of my language professors during the month-long immersion program in September. He told us about the 800 kilometer pilgrimage across northern Spain, starting in the French Pyranneas and ending in Santiago de Compostela, in north-west Spain. The Pilgrimage is over 1,000 years old, and originally the trek was done by Catholics to visit the Cathedral where Apostle St. James' remains are supposedly buried. Nowadays anyone can do it, not just believers, and hundreds of thousands of pilgrims make the hike every year, for all different reasons, from all different countries, and starting at all different points along the route.
      Ever since September I thought about possibly doing the Camino, and I decided to hike the last five stages in July as a way to conclude my year. I'm in no way religious, but I wanted to do something challenging--both physically, by walking 110 kilometers, but also mentally and emotionally, by doing it by myself and reflecting on my year. One thing I knew for sure was that I would never be alone, since you meet so many pilgrims along the way.
       I tried to do as much research as I could for the trip via internet and word of mouth, but I really had no idea what to expect (and I also refused to spend 30 euros on a guidebook for five short days). But like I said, on the Camino you're never alone, and on the bus ride to Sarria I met my first fellow pilgrim, Luis. He struck me as pretty eccentric but very friendly, and he explained to me how the hostels work along the way (there are public and private hostels at each town along the Camino), to always follow the yellow arrows that mark the trail, and the general code of conduct (including wishing "Buen Camino!" to every pilgrim you pass). He told me to trust people but not too much ("There are still bastards out there, like the ones who stole my boots") and to not worry about anything, because "There's always help on the Camino" (as he points to the sky--I guess for five days I should try my best to remain from scoffing at such religious remarks). I really started to trust Luis and think of him as a wise guide for the Camino, possibly a great companion to walk and exchange life lessons with for the next week--until he abruptly told me he must leave me now to "buscarme la vida," as he rubbed his finger frantically under his nose. Ok, so the first pilgrim I meet on the Camino, this supposedly ancient show of faith and what is to many a sacred experience, turns out to be a crack addict. So I'm left alone again on the sizzling streets of Sarria, my only acquaintance unwilling to pay five euros on a hostel but dishing out his last cash for drugs. I wonder, will all the pilgrims be this...er....unhinged? Perhaps the Camino attracts a specific kind of person?
       I'm happy to report that my next week hiking through Galicia was one of the best experiences of my life. I'm so grateful that I did it alone, because it enabled me to branch out, meet all sorts of amazing people, and be in charge and worry about only myself. From the moment I checked into a hostel that first day, before even having walked more than a few hundred meters from the bus stop, I met new and interesting and amazing people from all over the world. The Camino atmosphere was like the first month of Freshman year of college, where everyone is so nice and outgoing and eager to meet new people. But it's even better than that, because you're not just meeting 18-year-old Californians who want to party, but rather math professors from Barcelona and entire families from Valencia and psychiatrists from Philadelphia and eccentric Danish men who seem to speak entirely in jokes. You meet 12-year-old girls and 70-year-old grandfathers hiking 30 kilometers a day. You meet newlyweds and widows and couples that met and fell in love while walking to Santiago (and you hope to repeat their romance story). In five days of walking I laughed more and got closer to some near-strangers than I could have imagined before setting out on the trek, and vastly improved my Spanish from spending 24/7 with people from all over the Peninsula.

Dinner in Sarria the first night before walking. Friends Pierre, Charlie, and Jean.

     Most days on the Camino were similar: Wake up around 5:30 and start hiking at 6 while it's still dark. Catch the sunrise over beautiful rolling hills and green pastures. Stop at a bar after about two hours for a coffee and a stamp on your pilgrim passport, and wish "Buen Camino" to everyone who passes. Admire the beautiful scenery and, in my case, try to avoid stepping on the massive slugs that are all too common in Galicia's wet landscape. Reach the next town and hostel around noon or one, after walking between 20-30 kilometers (12-18 miles). Marvel at how forty bunk beds manage to cram themselves into just one room, and thank Saint James himself for the sweet relief of a shower and flip flops. Ingest about a billion calories for lunch and pretend that's how many you just burned in six hours of hiking, then try to take a siesta if you're not as unlucky as me, who, for two nights in a row, got placed in the bunk right next to the infamous snorer. (Number One topic of conversation on the Camino: how snorers should do us all a favor and stay home.) In the afternoon, after hand-washing your clothes, meet up at the town's sometimes only bar and drink beers and laugh until your soreness begins to dull. Bed around 10, trying to reach REM sleep before the snorer roars up.

Heading out the first day

Catching the sunrise

Trail between Sarria and Portomarín

Beautiful countryside

And more beautiful countryside

Follow the yellow arrows

     The Camino was like a cultural snapshot. You could almost tell where someone was from just by their habits. My fellow Americans were either drinking beer and dreaming about a plate of barbecued ribs instead of the monotony of Spanish food (my Texan friend), or cheerfully encouraging everyone and offering friendly hugs and thumbs-ups. (I feel like when Americans don't know what a social situation calls for, we just result to hugging). The Italians would stop at literally every café en route to have an espresso. The Spaniards would walk in jolly hoards, singing and cheering and jumping on each others backs as though it was not a holy pilgrimage but rather a frat party. The Danes discussed taxes and health care, and the French had a lit cigarette in hand even as they hulled their loads 25 kilometers over steep terrain, as though clean lungs were perhaps not so important when hiking seven hours a day.
        I would say the most challenging part for me on the Camino, more than blisters or sore hamstrings or lugging 25 pounds on my back, was knowing that any coffee break or hostel night could be the last time I see these people who I became such friends with. Since hardly anyone brings a phone on the Camino (added weight!), if someone decides to go a few more kilometers that day it could mean you are separated for the rest of the journey. And since I live about 6,000 miles away, it's not so easy to meet up with these people any old day for lunch. Luckily, however, it seemed to always work out that I ran into people (sometimes too frequently, to the point where we would say over 10 goodbyes "just in case"), and by the end I felt satisfied with the farewells.

      I say I absolutely loved the Camino, but I would do some things differently if I were to do it again (and I hope to!). Due to circumstances of traveling beforehand in Switzerland and Sweden, my pack was ridiculously too heavy--twice the recommended weight. I knew I would be going out in Switzerland and Sweden, and I think a nightclub would be likely to reject me if I showed up in running shoes and a Hanes V-neck, so I brought along some fancier flats. At the end of my trip I would be spending a few days in the inferno of Southern Granada, so I packed 2 dresses. My dad has instilled in me the dangers of sun exposure, perhaps too much so, to the point where I brought along not just one but three tubes of sunscreen, and couldn't get myself to dispose of any because sunscreen is so unreasonably expensive. I also had a purse inside my backpack, which in and of itself probably weighs a fifth of the recommended weight, because I couldn't walk the streets of Lugano or Stockholm with an entire backpacking pack to hold my wallet, unbrella, camera, etc. To top it off, Cecile's grandmother in Switzerland founded a make-up company and her house was brimming with free samples. I knew I would have to carry everything I took on my back, but offering free make-up to a girl is something like offering a slice of pizza to Ghandi. (The irony of all this is that I had everything I didn't need and nothing that I did--like a sleeping bag, flashlight, vaseline for feet, blister kit....what an unprepared pilgrim).
     Anyway, by the second day my friend Juan nicknamed me "Barbie Pilgrim," as I put on a dress after the shower and was also forced to wear my fancy flats since I lost my flip flops on the bus. I refrained from touching up with mascara, but by the end of the trip I was answering just as frequently to "Barbie" as to "Jenny." I got the last laugh, however, when we all went out to celebrate our last night in Santiago and all the girls were begging me for a splash of concealer and some eyeliner. Barbie Pilgrim always wins.

My friend Juan, giver of nicknames

      When we finally reached Santiago I was filled with mixed emotions. As I didn't start anywhere near the beginning (doing the Camino for the last 5 days almost feels like cheating), I didn't have this overwhelming sense of accomplishment or relief at having had arrived. As I'm not religious, I wasn't floored by the fact that I had reached an apostle's ancient remains. Instead, it really hit me that my incredible year, topped off by this incredible journey and incredible new friends, was fast coming to a close. I couldn't think of a better way to say goodbye to my new home.

Friends Jorge and Rosa in front of the Cathedral

My Valencian family

The incredible Cathedral

       That night me and some friends checked into a pensión (pure luxury after the hostels) and I explored the beautiful city of Santiago de Compostela. For dinner a small group of us went out to tapas and it was perfect closure to the Camino, spending time with the people whom I'd gotten closest to: my adopted Valencian family, siblings Juan and Amanda and mom Amanda; Rosa; and Jorge. They all proceeded to tell me how impressed they were that someone my age chose to do the Camino alone and mom Amanda called me "un ángel de una hija" (an angel of a child). I almost cried.
      Later that night there was a DJ in the huge plaza and we all pretended like walking hundreds of kilometers and sleeping in hostels didn't leave us severely sleep deprived at all. The next morning we realized that no amount of coffee could replace a week's lack of sleep, and after bidding a very sad farewell in the airport to the Valencian family, I boarded a plane to Southern Spain and stayed with my friend Javi for two days, where I'm pretty sure I slept more than 75% of the visit.

Plaza party

Gorgeous view overlooking Santiago

Asturias

       On Tuesday morning after an awful night's sleep at the Barcelona airport (it never occurred to me that they do all their noisy maintenance and cleaning at night), I took a very short flight to the northern coast of Spain, to the small province of Asturias. Once again I enjoyed the surprises of traveling alone, since it really makes me more outgoing and open to talking to random strangers. I met a very nice man named Pepe on the flight, and at the end he even offered me a ride in his company car, but unfortunately I was headed in the opposite direction. I had planned to visit the tiny fishing town of Cudillero, according to my guidebook "the most precious fishing town in all of Spain," so I bid Pepe farewell with two kisses and then tried to figure out how I would get to this little village, since there is no direct bus from the airport. Without a bus, or any clue on how to reach the main road to try and hitch-hike, I was forced to splurge on a taxi, which would cost 25 euros, but since I was really excited to see Cudillero after all my Google Image searches, I decided to pay it. It turned out to be a great decision because the taxi driver and I immediately hit it off. He was so friendly and told me all about his five years living in New York City, and how his appointment to renew his visa was the day after 9/11 so he was forced to move back to Spain. When he dropped me off twenty minutes later in Cudillero, we told each other we would meet again one day in the U.S. Then he slashed the price five euros and told me to use the money to enjoy a delicious breakfast during my morning in Cudillero. It seems like this whole trip I just keep being awed time and time again by the great people I meet. 

        Cudillero lived up to all my expectations. Since I arrived early in the morning there was hardly anyone out, so I climbed the narrow staircases carved into the hillsides and enjoyed the feeling of having the whole sleepy village to myself. Lonely Planet really hit the mark on this one--I'd say Cudillero was the most precious town I've been to in my whole year in Spain, with its colored buildings dotting the hillside, twisting staircases leading to hobbit-sized doors and houses, and the magnificent Atlantic in the background. 

        Of course, no matter how cute the town was, I ran out of things to do after two hours so I caught a bus to Gijón, the largest city in Asturias (still only the size of Granada), where I planned to Couchsurf that night. I was greeted by my host Guiller in his piso and then went out on my own to explore the twon and beach for a few hours. I got lucky with perfect weather--it's very rare to have a dry and cloudless day in Northern Spain. 

      I came back to the piso and had a long talk in Spanish with Guiller. I can't explain how refreshing it is to speak and hear Spanish outside of Andalucia. I suppose it's good that I'm learning it in a place where even Spaniards say they need to live in the South for three years before they can fully understand a conversation in the Andalucian dialect, because this way when I travel outside of the region I feel like I was born speaking Spanish. I don't have to ask "¿Cómo?" every second or hope that my fake laughs will convince people that I'm understanding. 

        Guiller and I went to share a bottle of Asturias' famous cider after, but since I was so exhausted from barely sleeping in the airport, we turned in early (but not before he generously cooked me dinner!). The next day I was catching a very early morning bus to Sarria, Galicia (very north-west Spain), to start the Camino de Santiago. 

The hillside of Cudillero 

Lighthouse in Cudillero

Barcelona (again)

          I arrived in Barcelona Sunday evening and checked in to the hostel I reserved, which could not have been more of a shock coming from the beautiful, comfortable home in Sweden--or coming from literally anywhere sanitary, in fact. The place didn't even have a sign on the entrance, so some other backpackers and I were wandering around aimlessly for a good 15 minutes before finding the right door. The beds were nauseating, and without going into too much graphic detail about the place, suffice it to say that the mattress above mine had blood stains on it. I would have rather gone out dirty than take a shower in that place, so I locked all my stuff up and wandered around the city until I was tired enough to fall asleep without worrying about staff infections or bedbugs, and then woke up early the next morning to get the hell out.
         I only had one full day in Barcelona, but since I had already done all the tourist things when I came in February, it was very relaxing. I was reminded of how much I loved the city as I wandered the Barrio de Gracia, Barrio Gotico and Montjuic, and although I thought I would feel really lonely after coming from such great company in Sweden, I really enjoyed the solitude. I did almost get robbed by a plot of fake police asking for my identification, but luckily I sort of awkwardly stumbled away, not quite sure at the time if I was smartly avoiding pick-pocketers or comitting a crime by running from the cops.
         The best part of the day came that night, when I was sitting peacefully in front of the Cathedral listening to street music, and I started chatting with two very elderly ladies next to me. They immediately told me to come closer and we entered into a very long and animated conversation. I cannot adequately describe how adorable Maita and Isa were--two sisters (probably over age 90) born in Andalucia but living in Barcelona, with the most amazing sense of humor. Every time I mentioned that I had been studying in Granada but was returning to California in two weeks (a topic that resurfaced frequently due to Maita's apparent memory loss), Maita would hit me on the shoulder and exclaim, "Pues yo voy contigo!! Tú te quedas aqui con mi familia y yo me mudo allí con la tuya!" (Well I'll go with you! You stay here with my family and I'll move there with yours!) It seemed like a perfect plan to me too.
        The three of us hung out on the bench for some time, talking and laughing like a group of high-schoolers instead of a tourist and two senile old women. It was quite frankly one of the most fun conversations I've had in Spanish so far, as they had me cracking up the whole time, especially when a couple walked by holding hands and Maita nearly lost it because of their height difference (the man was probably 6' 6'' and the woman 5' 2''). "Madre mía I don't even want to think how that couple shares a bed at night! She's barely bigger than the pillow and he's probably spilling over the edge!" She continued on to comment on their probable sex life, this tiny little religious woman who had just come out of mass, and she had me in absolute hysterics.
         Unfortunately the time came to say goodbye as I had to head for the airport, and I was also eager to escape before Maita forgot once again why and where I was headed in an airplane. But before I left the ladies insisted on getting my U.S. phone number so they could call me on Christmas!! That simply melted my heart completely. I'm not sure they realize they're phone bill will probably be more than their monthly pension if they choose to call me, but it's Ok because poor Maita will surely forget our conversation anyway.

New best friends: Isa, Maita and me

Some Swedish social commentary

      At the moment a crazy man in Denver opened fire and killed 12 moviegoers at the midnight showing of Batman, I was sleeping in a rustic farmhouse in rural Sweden, a country that is perhaps the political polar opposite of the U.S. (in the Western world, at least). Sweden is a prime example of socialism at its best, and many conversations around the breakfast table with Janne and Anna were spent discussing the lifestyles and politics between our two respective countries.
     The cost of living in Sweden is high. You must spend 6 euros just for a one-way ticket on a city bus, and forget about going out to more than the occassional club and drinks on a student budget. But the quality of life in the Scandanavian country seems close to perfect. People pay a high price--nearly 50% taxes--but get so much in return. Janne was mindblown by the fact that Obama´s healthcare initiative even wound up in the courts in the first place--isn´t it simple? If someone gets sick, they should have a universal right to treatment. In Sweden, even luxuries like braces, which cost upwards of 5,000 dollars in the States, are included in the coverage. People generally get at least 4 weeks of vacation a year, not including sick days--and that´s ordinary workers, not CEOs. Parents get 400 days of maternity leave, compared to about 2 minutes of maternity leave in the U.S. Anna feels comfortable letting her young girl rome around the neighborhood or even closer to central Stockholm alone because the city is so safe. There´s not even any poisonous animals to fear in Sweden´s nature! It´s merely ¨suggested¨ that you go to the hospital after a snake bite.
      In the car on a drive to the city the song ¨Fuck You¨ by Gnarls Barkley came on the radio, undubbed. I had heard the U.S.´s version ¨Forget You¨ for so long that I forgot it wasn´t the original, but it´s not censored in Sweden. And while flipping through the channels one night we landed on ¨The British Sex Survey,¨ basically a show for teens unveiling everything about sex and puberty in explicit--and I mean very explicit--detail. And this was public TV! The U.S. can´t seem to produce a movie these days without suggestive material, but I´m positive that if this show were even proposed to a network in the States, some conservative Christian group would put an end to it before they even finished pronouncing the title.
      So after discussing all this, we hear news of the shooting in Denver. Conversation turns to gun laws. It´s absolutely tiring trying to understand or rationalize U.S. policies after so much time spent in countries with lower crime rates, stronger social safety nets, and arguably higher quality of life for a large percentage of the population. Our country refuses to curse on the air and views anything outwardly relating to sex as sinful, but we think it´s constitutional to uphold a 300+ year law that no longer applies in today´s modern context. How many more Columbines or Virginia Tech´s or Denver Theaters will happen until people realize that this isn´t normal? It´s not normal to hear every so often about this type of tragedy. It´s not something we just accept as a hazard of society. Some places don´t have to listen to presidential addresses lamenting the loss of innocent lives, because these places don´t see the rationale behind selling deadly weapons to civilians. The right to feel secure in your own neighborhood, to grow up without loosing a family member to homicide, to watch the opening show of Batman with your friends without risking your life should be valued above the forefathers´ belief in the right to bear arms.

Sweden

       When I think of my nine days in Sweden I still remain awestruck by the unbelievable hospitality that Luc and I experienced. We stayed with Luc´s mom´s friend Anna and her family just outside of Stockholm for seven days and Luc´s very distant Swedish relatives in a rural village for two. Never in my life have I felt so well taken care of--pampered really--by strangers. Many experiences, trips and cities may blend into one as time goes by, but I will always remember Sweden for the two families that took us in and treated us as their own. After 11 months without living with my family, I truly felt like I was home.

Stockholm 

Part of the old town

       This hospitality began the minute Luc and I stepped off the plane, when Anna came to personally pick us up at the tiny Ryanair airport about an hour and a half from their house. There´s a bus we could have easily taken to the city center, but Anna insisted on coming to get us herself. We arrived at their charming house and were greeted by her husband Janne and their two kids, William and Maja, and we all sat down to teh first of many amazing homecooked meals, peacefully eating and chatting on the porch. In the week that followed, the family devoted all of their time to us--and this was during their vacation time, when they could have been relaxing and enjoying their time off work in solitude. They showed us the beautiful old town of Stockholm, situated in an archipelago on the Baltic Sea; we took a ferry ride to a remote island (and they even insisted on paying for our ferry tickets) and had a picnic and swam in the frigid water, which was the farthest North I´ve ever swam; we explored the vast nature reserve outside their house while picking wild blueberries for a pie Anna made us later--not sure if it gets more quaint than that. I´ll always remember Sweden for providing me with exposure therapy for my irrational slug phobia--I´ve never seen so many massive snails and brown banana slugs in my life as I did in the 2 kilometers we walked in the woods, and I still get queasy thinking about Anna stomping them with her boots so I wouldn´t have to see them alive. Not sure if that was worse or not....Anyway, I paid a high emotional price for playing hunter-gatherer for a day.

Anna collecting berries

Too much nature

Boat ride to the island

Picnic on the island

        One rainy day (of which there were many--everyone we met quickly informed us it was the rainiest summer since the 17th century) we visited the Vasa museum. The Vasa was a huge ship that sank in the waters of Stockholm only a few hundred meters after it first set sail in the 1600s. Steven Spielberg is making a movie of it right now, but how he plans on making it as good as The Titanic is beyond me. When it cleared up that same day we visited Skansen, a sort of recreated old Swedish village complete with the typical red and white houses, windmills, and even Scandinavian animals like moose, brown bears, and lynx. There was a free concert that evening, so Anna and Janne--as one would only expect of them at this point--whipped out a delicious picnic, and we ate and listened to music and watched the sun go down (around 10:30 this time of year) over the water.
        As if hosting us and spending every waking hour entertaining us wasn´t enough, Janne and Anna went above and beyond. They invited us for dinner at their friend´s house one night, where I tried barbecued horse--in all seriousness, my new favorite red meat. They cooked us every meal like we were in a 5 star restaurant, treated us to ice cream and pizza when we were out, and drove us everywhere. After I said how much I missed my favorite comfort food, Mac n Cheese, they surprised me with a box of it. And on the last night when Luc and I went out to a club in Stockholm, Janne insisted--despite our numerous protests that we would take the bus--on picking us up downtown at any hour of the night. Every time I thought the level of graciousness couldn´t get any higher, they somehow managed to beat their own hospitality record.
       In the middle of the week Luc and I took a train two hours north to Dalarna, which could not have been less similar to Stockholm. Luc´s distant relatives--whom he had never met--picked us up at the train station and brought us to their beautiful home in basically the middle of no where. This part of sweden is very rural, with vast green landscapes dotted with red farmhouses, lakes, and fields of yellow flowers. It was unbelievably gorgeous and so remote, a huge change from the city we had just left. Luc´s relatives, Kersti and Bo and their children, Joanna and Johannes (could they have chosen more similar names?) were also incredibly welcoming, and despite their poor English we managed some conversation. They told us about their family and work, and I couldn´t believe how different it was from anything I am used to. The parents are from the same town that they live in now,  where the population is probably under 1,000. They have lived together since they were 16. Bo drives trucks for a living and Kersti works in a gas station. The daughter, who is just 16, has already moved in with her 22-year-old boyfriend. All the relatives live in a 5-mile radius. Perhaps what surprised me most, however, is that this family had a beautiful house, land, 2 cars, a tractor, had traveled a lot within Europe, had sent their daughter to the U.S. two summers ago, had plans for the children to go to college, and seemed genuinely happy with what I saw as such a simple life. A family with the saem background and means of income in the U.S. would hardly be as fortunate. In Sweden, even blue-collar jobs provide their workers with a very liveable life, whereas an American family in their situation would be struggling to survive.
         Our stay in Dalarn was very relaxing, as would be expected in a place where most houses are vacation homes for Stockholmites trying to excape the hustle and bustle of the city. We visited a moose farm, drove for hours through the beautiful countryside, ate delicious food (a theme of this trip), and met many of Luc´s relatives. Everyone was so warm and welcoming. On the last day we went to the town´s annual tractor parade. I always thought that if I were to have the most redneck experience of my life it would probably occur in Texas or Oklahoma, never while visiting Sweden. But there I was, riding in the back of Bo´s tractor surrounded by hundreds of other tractors carrying eager hordes of people of all ages. We followed the parade through town, and it seemed like the whole population in 20 square miles came out to watch the event.

Incredible Swedish countryside

View from the house we were staying in

       Although our stay in Dalarn was nice, Luc and I were very eager to get back to city life, and especially to Anna and Janne, who were beginning to feel like a mix between older siblings and parents. They greeted us at the station and brought us home to a risotto feast, as though welcoming us home after a year abroad. Our last day in Stockholm we spent exploring a nearby castle and, even better, practicing driving stick-shift on Janne´s Mercedes. Am I painting a clear enough picture of how cool this man is? He was eager to loan out his Mercedez Benz to two people who not only have never driven manual, but haven´t even driven automatic in almost a year. Needless to say, I stalled more than a dozen times, but I consider it a success that no one was killed during my time behind the wheel.
      After one last breakfast/feast of homemade Swedish pancakes, Anna and Janne drove us to the airport bus the next day, and I knew that I was saying goodbye to some very special people. I felt so at home with them, and I was about to start nine days of travel alone through northern Spain, which made it even harder to leave the comforts of family. To top it all off, Anna burst into tears when saying goodbye to us. In just 9 days we went from strangers to real friends. I really hope to see them all if and when they next visit California, and it feels great to know I´ll always (as they told me countless times) be welcomed in Sweden.

Anna and Janne, adoptive parents

Switzerland

(These titles are becoming less and less creative as the clock in this internet cafe keeps ticking.)

         The day after my last exam I left before sunrise to catch a flight to Switzerland, since my Swiss neighbor Cecile invited me and her roommates Emily and Luc to stay with her for a few days. They had all finished finals well before me, so I met them for the last days of their stay. I was in Switzerland five years ago and it was one of my favorite countries I´ve ever been to, so it was great to have the opportunity to go back. Cecile lives right outside of Lugano on the Swiss-Italian border, and we explored the lakeside city after they picked me up from the train station the first afternoon. Later we had drinks in a plaza, and one look at the prices in this incredibly rich country broke my Granada bubble--2 euros for a beer and tapa in my Spanish home is more like a dream than a reality in any other European city.

Lake Lugano

         When we arrived at Cecile´s house later I was absolutely blown away. She basically lives in an Italian villa overlooking all of the lake and mountains. Her parents were so welcoming, and although I've sort of considered my whole year in Granada as a break from reality, my time at Cecile´s was a true vacation. All the days sort of blended into one, so here´s a rundown of my time in paradise:
          Sleep in (in my own room) until 10:30 am; have breakfast and coffee on the garden terrace overlooking the lake; swim and sunbathe down at the lake; come home to Cecile´s parents´ homemade delicacies--fresh pesto lasana, meatballs and tabouli, caprese salad, wine, etc. Pick blueberries and raspberries from their huge garden and make a berry crisp for dessert; head to Grandma´s pool and tennis courts during the afternoon; have drinks on the lake in the evening with Cecile´s friends; more homemade feasts for dinner. I felt so relaxed and pampered the time that it was hard to believe I was visiting a friend instead of being on my honeymoon.

Emily and Luc picking berries

The view from Cecile's house

Cecile's mom's pesto lasaña

Lunch on the terrace

          One of the nights we went to a free concert in Lugano (probably the only thing that has ever, or will ever, be free in Lugano) by a world-famous violinist. Although I wouldn´t call myself a classical music fan, it was the most incredible playing I´ve ever heard. However, the man was like the Lady Gaga of classical, dressed in outrageous costumes and doing over-the-top theatrics throughout the whole set, to the point where I experienced that uncomfortable awkwardness when you feel just plain sorry for the performer because you wonder if they have any friends or if they repel everyone they meet with their unbearable personality.
          On the last night Cecile´s friend Davide drove us all to Milan so we could have a nice time together before our flight left early Saturday morning. We went to drinks and aperativos by the river, and later to an Italian restaurant for dinner. The saddest part of the trip came that night when it was time to say goodbye to Cecile and Emily, some of my closest friends this year in Granada. But I´m confident I´ll see them again, either in Europe or California, so it was only a temporary goodbye.
         Then Luc and I headed to the Milan airport at 4 a.m. to catch our flight to Sweden!

Finals

       All of June and part of July was taken up by a blur of studying, tests, and sleeplessly warm nights. I decided I wasn´t eager to repeat last semester´s experience of failing my final exam, so I overcompensated this time around, and studied possibly more than I even would at UCSB. The library became a sort of social watering hole, to the point where I would take the bus to campus, spend two meager hours divided between sporadic studying and watching Youtube clips; then an hour at the dining halls for lunch followed by a Javi-mandated 45 minute coffee break. Around 3 o´clock we would return to a few hours of studying before the library closed, where about half the time I spent digesting a food coma. In the evenings we would usually have the brilliant idea of cracking open a bottle of wine on my terrace in order to study more, but how much are you really taking in after three glasses? With a daily schedule more or less like this, it´s no wonder it took six weeks to adequately prepare for four finals. It was the most studying without studying that I´ve ever done in my life, but I guess that goes in keeping with this whole year. Anyway, I´m very pleased with the end results, and maybe I could go as far as to say that tipsy studying on the terrace leads to excellence.
      Scattered in between my exams were a number of other social breaks--Javi´s band´s concert, BBQs, birthdays, tapas, midnight ice creams at the foot of the Alhambra, and a visit to the beach to say goodbye to some friends just two days before my hardest final. Although the coast was great, the stomach flu/food poisoning I developed afterwards was not, and between spending all Saturday at the beach and all Sunday in bed with a fever, I walked pale and nauseous into my Monday morning exam feeling somewhat less than prepared. Luckily the class was Contrastive Linguistics between English and Spanish, so I already had a 50% chance of passing merely thanks to growing up speaking English.
       However, coming down with the flu two days before leaving Granada for a month-long trip meant that I couldn´t visit my favorite places or say as many goodbyes as I would have liked. I´ll be back for one afternoon in August so I´ll have to cram in all my ´´lasts´´ then!

Germany

           As a reward for finishing three out of four finals, I took a week-long break to Germany to visit one of my best friends growing up, Kaila, who is studying for the year in Tübingen (south-west Germany). The flight over with Lufthansa was the true definition of luxury after spending too much time on Ryanair this year. For a trip of less than three hours they offered me a meal and wine or beer, which of course I accepted eagerly even though all I truly wanted was water, which shows me how messed up the U.S.’s drinking law is—deprivation apparently leads to hoarding….

I arrived in Munich in the night and met my couchsurfing host Baran in the train stop. Although I’ve never done couchsurfing alone and had some reservations, Baran and I immediately hit it off and it turned out to be pretty fun. On Thursday he showed me all around Munich, including the beautiful English Garden where we ate a traditional German meal in a beer garden. I don’t know how people can say portion sizes are huge in America if they’ve ever set foot in Bavaria—in one sitting people were eating pretzels bigger than my head, towers of meat dripping with sauce, and multiple liters of beer.

We walked around for a while longer and then headed to the Isar river to sit and relax. The river served as a perfect fridge to chill our beers, and people lined the shores, waded, drank and juggled while the sun set. That night we went to another beer garden to watch the Germany vs. Italy Eurocup game, but Germany lost so it was a pretty somber atmosphere.

Baran and me in the English Garden

Throughout the day Baran tried to teach me some German in preparation for next year, and I think it´s safe to say that if it took me 8 years to become fluent in Spanish, i´ll probably have grandchildren before I master German. The words are longer than I have breath to pronounce, and trying to make the ´ch´ sound in the back of my throat came out more similar to gagging than the pronunciation of an actual letter.  

The next day I took a long bus ride to Tübingen, and it was so great to reunite with Kaila after almost a year. She’s having an equally amazing time studying abroad, so it was so much fun to catch up and share stories. I immediately fell in love with Tübingen, which is a pretty small city (even smaller than Granada) and has such charming buildings and parks. That night I got some beers with her roommate Miles and his sister Milena, who was visiting as well.

Beautiful Tübingen

On Saturday we went to a huge outdoor swimming pool since it was ridiculously hot for German standards (although basically chilly for Granada´s), and spent the whole day lounging, swimming, and hanging out with some of Kaila’s California friends. That night turned into the biggest thunderstorm I have ever seen, with lightening every two seconds, but somehow we still managed to get out the door and meet Kaila’s program director/friend Jan for some drinks. He works in the California State University office, which also shares space with the Tufts office, and on this particular weekend the Tufts Dean of Admissions happened to be visiting, and also came to drinks with Jan. If I were a millionaire Tufts would have been my first choice school in a heartbeat, and here I found myself in the tiny town of Tübingen with the Dean of Admissions buying me rounds.

Riverfront island

Milena, Kaila, and me

Smelling that fresh Tübingen air

It rained every subsequent day of my stay in Germany, but I still had a fantastic time since the trip was really about the people I was with. Kaila, Miles, Milena and I baked, made elaborate meals (Greek stuffed tomatoes and fajitas), played cards, and drank amazing German beer (I will never drink a Bud’s light ever again). I think I spent 90% of the trip laughing, which, now that I think of it, is how I spend the majority of my time when I’m with Kaila or any member of the Wanberg family. 

We managed to do a lot of sight-seeing as well when the rain cleared up occasionally, and the beautiful town is nestled in luscious green hills. All the buildings have red rooves and I think I would have probably died from its quaintness if I had been there during Christmas.

I reluctantly returned to Granada´s final exams and heat after such a wonderful week. In fact, during the flight it became clear that I was almost back in Spain when Lufthansa decided to serve us none other than packaged strips of ham. I missed pretzels and sausage already....

(Side note: Spain won the Euro-cup while I was in Tübingen, which is great except that it occurred on one of the few occasions that I was OUTSIDE of the country. Also all the Germans were still depressed from Germany’s loss to Italy. I’m sure the atmosphere would have been a little more thrilling in Granada, but I’ll take a week trip to Germany if it means missing the game!)

Quick Update

           I have been a terrible blogger lately, since for some reason this country thinks it's a great idea to have an entire month and a half of final exams. I have four this semester and they happened to be spread out through the entire exam period, meaning I started studying in late May and don't finish until July 9th. June basically consisted of spending the day in the library with friends (with very extensive coffee and lunch breaks) and unwinding with more friends and wine on the terrace at night--meaning studying has still managed to be a ridiculously social affair, as this is still Spain after all. Of course, a highlight of such spread-out exams was that I had two weeks in between my third and fourth and thus took a trip to Germany (post to come, although at the rate I'm going it could take a while....).
           With exactly one month left in Europe, I'm experiencing the strangest emotions. I feel like I could break down in tears at any moment thinking about leaving, but it's also surreal to see Granada transforming into the place that it was when I first came: hot and empty, except for the throngs of tourists. Since it's such a university city and most students have already finished exams, the place is definitely starting to clear out, and an odd and lonely feeling remains. I only have a couple more days in this amazing city, and I walk by my favorite places now with such nostalgia, remembering the many times over the year that I went to a certain tapas bar, sat and people-watched in my favorite plaza, strolled by the river or was awed by the Alhambra lit up at night. But the other part of me is so eager to get out of here and start my month-long trip through Switzerland, Sweden and Northern Spain, and I'm emotionally drained from saying goodbyes to people who have made my stay here incredible, and who I might possibly never see again. (Depressing, but realistic). To study abroad they prep you for cultural differences, cuisine, what to pack, and how to greet with two kisses; but they neglect to prepare you on how to leave it all after a year.
         When I said goodbye to my program director Inma yesterday, she put it best: I'll be back one day for sure, so this is not adios but rather hasta luego. 

Speak.

Today I went to get a haircut, and in the waiting room there was a man sitting silently, having accompanied his wife and daughter. At first I picked up a magazine so we wouldn’t just be staring at each other, but after a little while he began talking to me. We chatted about the typical things like weather (Is that a cultural universal, finding yourselves in forced situations where you have to mention the climate? Maybe Granada’s 90+ degree heat lends itself especially well to weather small talk), and then moved on to his multiple heart and stomach operations, his family, final exams, my time in Granada, etc. He was very difficult to understand, which I thought was due to his age (65+), so I caught about 70 per cent and the remaining 30 I sort of just nodded and let out the occasional laugh, which he seemed satisfied enough with. When his wife and daughter finished they introduced themselves and seemed particularly nice to me, and once again I was left to ponder just how open and friendly Andalusians can be.

            When it was time for my haircut, I chatted about this and that with the hairdresser, and then the subject of that family came up. She stopped cutting my hair and looked at me really seriously and said, “I can’t believe that man talked to you today! It’s been three months since he’s said a single word.” I wasn’t sure if I completely understood her right, but she went on to say that when his wife heard him speaking to me in the waiting room she was ecstatic and completely surprised, because he hasn’t even talked to her in this whole time as a side effect of mental deterioration (possibly Altzeimer’s). “Mi marido ha vuelto a hablar,” she told the hairdresser (my husband speaks again). Of course I was completely oblivious of all this at the time, mostly worrying throughout the whole conversation if I should treat the man with Tú verses Usted (one of my greatest fears in speaking Spanish is that I’ll greatly offend someone by using the casual form with a superior), and it never crossed my mind that the reason he was so difficult to understand was that he hadn’t exercised his voice in three months. Even though I’m sure it was coincidental, I feel so honored that he chose a sputtering, blumbering guiri to share his first words after so much time!

The Family Chronicles: Part II

After my sister and I spent a week in Granada by ourselves while our parents were hiking in the Pyrenees, we took an overnight bus to reunite with them in San Sebastian, part of the Basque Country in the north of Spain. I was particularly excited for this because I’d heard from everyone I’ve talked to how beautiful the north is, how different it is from Andalusia, and how great the food is there. I was certainly not disappointed.

            We arrived after a 12-hour bus ride, which somehow felt two hours long since I managed to sleep most of the way. Something about moving vehicles makes me pass out almost immediately. When I finally awoke we were driving through lush green countryside, which in Eastern Andalusia simply doesn’t exist. It reminded me so much of West Marin that I felt like our 12-hour journey had actually been a flight back to California.

            As my parents had not yet arrived from the mountains, Katie and I checked into the hotel and then headed straight to the beach, which was absolutely picturesque. Perfect sand, shallow turquoise water, and beautiful surrounding hills. San Sebastian is situated around a cove, so the water is really calm and warmer than the actual Atlantic. After spending some nice time tanning and swimming we went off in search of pinchos, the Basque version of Tapas. Pinchos are renowned for being some of the best cuisine in the world (here I’m quoting Anthony Bourdain yet again), and although I’ll say they’re no burrito, there is something thrilling in the fact that you walk into any bar and there are at least twenty different varieties of bite-sized plates laid out before your eyes, ready for you to point at and eat immediately. I felt like a child in a candy store, only instead of sugary treats I was surrounded by lots of exotic fish and meat that looked questionable but tasted great.

            The next day the whole family went on a walk to a hill overlooking the entire city. Then Katie and I decided to cut the hike short and return to the beach, because once you get a taste of heaven it’s hard to do much else. We got so lucky with the weather while we were there—normally it rains a lot in the north, but we were blessed with 80 degree sunshine, perfect for swimming. I’ll wrap up the San Sebastian part now, since in reality we did little more than eat, sleep, and swim, which I’m starting to realize is my idea of a perfect vacation.

 

            The next day we drove an hour west to Bilbao, still part of Basque Country. While the rest of my family spent hours in the Guggenheim Museum, I walked all around the town, exploring the old parts of the city and a grassy park perched on a hill overlooking everything. As the museum is really the attraction of this city, there’s not too much to relay about Bilbao, except that it had a feeling I really liked—industrial but on the upswing.

            We spent that night, as well as the next two nights, in a tiny little village in the province of Cantabria, called Santillana del Mar. This is, according to the not-so-trustworthy Lonely Planet guide, “the most picturesque village in Spain.” The authors weren’t far from the mark this time, as Santillana is a beautifully preserved medieval village complete with rolling hills and grazing livestock in the background. There were about twenty shops and restaurants in the whole place, so needless to say the time we spent there was very relaxing. On the first day we visited the nearby Altamira and Castillo caves with some of the first discovered cave paintings in Spain. In the latter we actually got to go deep inside the original cave and see the sketches first-hand, and the Spanish guide talked about a word a minute and made me feel really great about my level of comprehension. Actually my parents even understood about 85% of what he said and they’ve never even taken a Spanish lesson.

The most shocking part of the whole experience was not seeing 30,000+ year-old art, but rather the fact that my Stanford-educated father proceeded to ask the guide (after we had already been on the tour for half an hour): “Hay paleolíticos aquí?” (Literally: are there paleolithics here?) What he meant to ask was if Paleolithic humans came that far back into the cave, as we were very deep in, but the language barrier presented such problems that even the guide looked at my dad like he had severe mental issues. I, in turn, swiftly melted into the group of other tourists and pretended I was in no way associated, as I was expecting the guide to say any minute,  “Um, who do you think we’ve been talking about for the better part of an hour? Have you been missing the entire concept that these paintings were made by really really old people? Or did you mean, are there Paleolithic people here at this very moment? Yes, in fact, at the end of the tour we get to meet the very artists themselves!” My poor dad, as if he didn’t take enough brutal jokes from my sister and I on the duration of the trip, he now appears in my blog. But it’s my duty to report my favorite memories from my year abroad, and also all brilliant people are allowed an occasional slip—especially if they’re making it in Spanish. Love ya daddy!

            That afternoon, as though suffering sufficient humiliation was not brutal enough, we all went to Santillana’s only attraction: the torture museum. It’s an odd paradox that this seemed to be one of the first times we all truly meshed well as a family on the trip; maybe the presence of skull-crushing devices, human melting pots and body-spearing poles made us realize how fortunate we all were to have each other. We soon realized, however, that this torture museum was no joke, and the light mood in which we entered was very quickly erased, to the point where the paella I had for lunch was not sitting so well with me after reading the last of 100 descriptions of torture. What is wrong with the human race? In the first place we inflict torture. In the second we establish museums devoted to torture, and in the third place we then pay to see them.

The adorable town of Santillana del Mar

            The next day Katie and I opted to skip the grueling mountain trek that my parents headed off to, and we caught a bus to the beach instead. After the water of San Sebastian I was dying for more, and Cantabria’s beaches didn’t disappoint. If Santa Barbara’s beaches were anything like northern Spain’s, I would surely have gone swimming more than twice in my 2 years there.

            The last day of the trip we drove to Segovia, which has the most famous Roman aqueduct in all of Spain. It truly was a sight, and even though there’s not too much going on in that sleepy city, I’ll say that it was one of my favorite places I’ve been to in Spain because of the ancient structure. We had a last family dinner in the Plaza Mayor and then got ready to head our separate ways in the morning.

            Although my heart will always lie with Andalusia, the north of Spain is absolutely beautiful and I’m so glad I got the chance to see it. The second half of the trip was overall really great, as I think the initial bumps of traveling with my family after 9 months of independence wore off a bit. I truly am so grateful that they came to visit me, even if I have a bit too sarcastic way of expressing it on my blog! Also it was so great to see my sister for 3 weeks and get along with her in a way that I would have never thought possible in our middle-school and high-school days. It only took 10 years of rocky adolescence for us to treat each other humanely again!!