Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Teaching English!

There’s 47% youth unemployment in Spain right now, but I officially have a job here! A girl on my program was teaching English to two boys, age 5 and 6, but she is leaving after this semester so she offered the job to me. Since I spent about half my childhood forcing my mom and sister to act as my students while I played with my whiteboard and shouted at them for disrupting my fake classroom, it seems only natural that I finally have real students to teach.
The kids are very cute. Their names are Eduar (not a typo) and Alejandro. The first day I met them they were dressed in matching Argyle sweaters, starting the typical metro European fashion early. They’re more interested in telling me long stories about trips to the mountains or recess at school rather than learning English, but this is universal in young children, not just ones who have no clue what I’m saying when I greet them with, “Hi boys! How are you today?”
I’ve been uncovering my arts-n-crafts side these past few days, inventing various games and activities to help teach them. I’ve decided to write and illustrate my own storybook so I can pick and choose what vocabulary to focus on. I encountered my first language dilemma while writing one story, “Ben’s Birthday,” in which Ben receives several presents, including a soccer ball. While coloring the ball I spent about 10 minutes deciding whether to call it a soccer ball or a football. I am American, but these kids will probably encounter British English the majority of their lives. After contemplating for too long, I realized that it really doesn’t matter since they’ll probably forget the word anyway. In the end I stayed patriotic and represented my American roots. Haters can be haters, but this will avoid any possible confusion if Ben receives a football (American football, that is) for his next birthday.
I got out a basic English vocabulary book from the library here, and once again I was faced with a predicament, as it was clearly written in British English. Some of the translations sound simply ridiculous to my American ears. Stove is translated as “cooker,” trash can as “rubbish bin,” underwear as “knickers.” Saltshaker is translated as “saltcellar,” which in my mind would be a closet-type room filled to the ceiling with grains of salt., and can I ask what the hell is an “Eiderdown?” Apparently it’s a comforter, which I only deduced after entering the Spanish word into an online translator. Apparently sometimes the Motherland’s dialect is just as foreign to me as Spanish. Needless to say, these kids might grow up to sound like American hicks, but at least they won’t be saying such ridiculous things as “Mother, it’s chilly in here, would you mind placing a thicker eiderdown on my bed?”

  

Then there’s the problem of book-English versus street-English. It’s funny how you don’t even think about the simplest things until you have to teach them. For instance, do I instruct them to answer my question, “How are you today?” with “I am good” or “I am well?” And when we embark on body parts, do I follow the book’s definition of “bottom,” or do I teach them “butt?” Is it better to have manners but speak like an 80-year-old British woman, or be a bit crude but be the first among your five-year-old peers to start making butt jokes?


For our first lesson today I played a game that I remember from my first year of learning Spanish. I would say a verb and perform the action that goes along with it, and the boys would mimic me. So by the end we were walking, sitting, dancing, laughing, hugging, and jumping all over the house. After we repeated the actions a bunch of times, each boy got a turn to be the teacher, and would call out the word for me to perform. It was apparent that “jump” was the verb that most stuck with them, because I feel like I did little else than hop up and down for the last 10 minutes. 
Towards the end of our lesson I read them the story I created. Never have I felt so validated! The older one kept commenting things like, “Wow, you drew this?” “What cool drawings!” When we got to the page with the birthday cake, they both said, “Qué tarta más chula!” (What a cool cake!). They both seemed to really like the story. It’s always impressive how captivated little kids can be by the most boring things, as “Ben’s Birthday” can hardly be called a Penguin Classic. It essentially reads, “This is Ben. Today Ben turns five. Cool! He get's a new pair of sneakers! . . . " (There's that damn dilemma again! They're going to hear "trainers" from all of their friends with British tutors!)



I feel like this could be an all-around winning experience. I get to hang out with little kids (win), be in a mostly Spanish environment since they don’t yet know enough English (win), prep for lessons by doing arts and crafts (win), and get paid (win win). (Is it sad that I calculate all my earnings in terms of tapas I could buy? One hour equals ten rounds!) Even the fact that I have to walk 40 minutes each way to their house could be considered a win, since joining a gym here in November doesn’t mean that I actually go to it!
The fact that I have a job (and without being an EU citizen, at that!) when the rest of the country doesn’t reinforces my desire to learn languages. Speaking English suddenly gives me value here, so it’s my hope that knowing Spanish in California will make up for spending four years of college taking classes like “Introduction to Alternative World Healing” and “Gender Studies in the Balkans.” 

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Studying? That Exists Here?

Spain’s double personality is killing me right now. I’ve gotten so used to thinking life is all smiles here—three days of class, constant tapas and coffee dates with friends, and everyone eagerly anticipating immensely fun and tiring weekends. Then all of a sudden students come back from their Christmas breaks and start acting like 4th-year Grad students—a.k.a. studying. All. The. Time. I always hate finals at UCSB because no one ever wants to do anything but camp out in Davison Library and drink 14 cups of coffee a day. But finals there are a week, maybe two weeks tops of studying. Here, finals run throughout the month of February, which means all of January is the equivalent of “Dead Week.” No one is kidding about that name, and I feel like I’m slowly dying along with it. My Spanish friends, who sometimes go out four nights a week, are glued to their textbooks. It’s impossible to find a spot to sit in any of the billions of libraries here. Professors are canceling the last days of class so their students can study. (Well, I guess canceled class is nothing new. . . .) And suddenly, after thinking that my work level in Spain is a bed of roses, I find myself having to write several 20-page papers in Spanish (I think the longest paper I’ve ever written was ten pages, and that was in English), and study for a test in a class where I’m still convinced we haven’t actually learned anything over these past four months.
Here’s a theory: If students actually ever showed up to class, they wouldn’t have to spend a month and a half cramming their brains with borrowed notes in order to pass their tests. But maybe four months of bliss is worth one month of Hell?
To keep myself from going crazy and getting a bit down on being here at the moment, I’ve buried myself in trip planning. Since my finals are spread out, I have a chunk of time in February completely free. Instead of spending more nights surrounded by stressed-out students in Granada, I’m hopping over to Barcelona for five days to visit some friends. Then, at the end of February, I figured I’d celebrate the end of finals with a week-long trip to Italy! Visiting friends there, turning 21 in Venice, and eating pizza that isn’t Spain-itized with corn and carrot toppings is helping me get through this oh-too-studious time.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

A Bit Nostalgic

January is always a downer month, no matter where you are in the world. The holidays are over, your pants don’t fit so great anymore, it gets dark earlier, it’s cold and you are inevitably sick for at least half the month. So I’m going to formally document the little things I miss about home, only because it’s January and not because I’ve stopped loving it here.

  1. Mexican food. Yes, it’s on the list before friends or family. You try living five months without it.
  2. Friends and family (Duh, I’m not dead inside).
  3. My dog Button, who’s 14 ½ and who has lived two years longer than most dogs his size. He’s still as cute on Skype as he was when I left him, and I do have to say I’m sort of glad I’m not around to see him going blind and deaf.
  4. America-sized coffees. Our population might be obese, but at least we serve drinks that aren’t polished off in one sip.
  5. UCSB. I really thought I wouldn’t miss it this year since I definitely needed a break, but no one goes to school on the beach without getting pretty nostalgic while they’re away.
  6. Thrifty Ice-Cream runs with Maddy. Get a triple-cone of Cookie’s N Cream for me!
  7. Using public restrooms with the luxury of knowing you’ll be able to complete the job with some toilet paper.
  8. Trader Joe's everything. Who knew one could feel such affinity for a grocery store?
  9. Carpet floors. Tile floors make January even more cold and depressing.
  10. I miss the general attitude at UCSB that it’s not necessary for girls to wear heels when going out. My foot bones weren’t made for this.
  11. Breakfasts. I want to be able to stop at a café on my way home from school and order something other than toast and coffee.
  12. Being intelligent. My IQ drops about 50 points when I try to get my point across in Spanish.

My list about things I love here would be 10 times as long, but that one will come out when I don’t have a hacking cough, it’s not raining and final exams are not swiftly approaching. 



God how good does that look???



Friday, January 6, 2012

Holidays in New Homes

I celebrated Christmas with Anna in her apartment this year. It was the most low-key Christmas I’ve ever had, which was in some ways depressing but in some ways DELICIOUS because we made stuffed bell peppers and persimmon crisp. I will say that Christmas Eve was probably the first day I felt actually homesick since being in Spain, but that’s expected around the holidays.

The day after Christmas I forced myself out of bed at 8:30—four hours earlier than usual on my vacation days—and caught a bus to Partaloa, where my friend Amalia and her family spend their holidays. Partaloa is a tiny town of about 400 people in the very Eastern part of Andalucía. I spent two days there doing the very best things—eating, sleeping in, lounging, baking, and spending time with various members of her very large and extended Spanish family. Since I couldn’t be with my own family during the holidays, I enjoyed my time with hers even more. Amalia and her mom, dad, sister, and all sorts of uncles and aunts and cousins are so welcoming and generous, and I felt so lucky to be taken in by such fun and friendly people! (And I’m not just sucking up here because Amalia reads my blog.)
In Partaloa everyone lives within a five minutes walk of each other. There is one tiny convenience store, one bread shop (instead of one on every corner, like in Granada), and everyone greets each other when they’re walking down the street. As Amalia says, Partaloa is “España profunda” (deep Spain, i.e. the middle of nowhere), and it was so great to see this side of the country because as a tourist you normally only hit big cities or beach towns.


On the second day her dad took us to the town’s olive-oil plant. Here everyone can bring their harvested olives and make their own olive oil. The smell in there is amazing, and seeing as olive oil has become my new favorite food here—I might even consider it it’s own very important food group—I felt right at home there. I wanted to whip out a baguette and have a tostada picnic right there on the factory floor.

Straight FAT!! 

After Amalia’s it was on to Neivar’s house for New Years. The minute we got there we went to a huge barbecue at her friend Juan’s house, and all the friends I met on my previous visit were there. Fourteen hours of eating, drinking, dancing, and merriment—yep, sounds like Spain. On New Years Eve her family prepared a huge dinner and at midnight I participated in Spain’s version of the countdown—eating a grape with the twelve strikes of the clock. Eating twelve grapes in twelve seconds is no easy feat, but I’m happy to say I completed the task and should have luck in the New Year. If the grapes failed, though, I had some back-up luck: earlier that day Neivar’s mom passed me some bright red panties to wear under my dress! Apparently everyone must wear red underwear on New Year’s Eve, or else who knows what sort of horrible luck can strike in the coming year. . . .We then went out to Neivar’s friend Victor’s house to continue the celebrations, and later to a huge New Years Party in town.

Toasting my twelve grapes.

It was such a privilege to be able to spend the holidays with two amazing families, but after a week of cultural assimilation, partying, and speaking only in Spanish I was physically and mentally exhausted (In fact, I had my first definite dream in Spanish on New Year’s Eve—a sign that my brain was churning in Spanish way more than normal this trip), so I spent the last part of break enjoying Granada before school starts again. On one of these days Katie and I went to three towns in Las Alpujarras, which are tiny villages in the Sierra Nevada foothills. We hiked between three of them—sort of like  Granada’s version of Cinque Terre! They are beautiful rural villages, a nice break from a city feel, and we lucked out with 75 degree weather in January. As terrifying as climate change is, it’s helping me survive the Granada winter, that’s for sure.

  
Happy New Year everybody! My two resolutions: become fluent in Spanish and eat less bread here. We’ll see which is more easily attainable.